His Hell’s Kitchen, in 100 Ways: Photo Essay by Christian Miles

PHOTOS & TEXT BY CHRISTIAN MILES | There was a time no one in their right mind would visit Hell’s Kitchen unless they were looking for drugs or the freshest food in town, right off the boats. Hell’s Kitchen was once as tough and cruel as its moniker boasted—wrought with violence, shady business, and hard times. This was the Hell’s Kitchen I grew up in, and to say you were from here raised suspicion in some circles and respect in others. The pristine high-rises, quaint cafes, idealistic parks, ornamental displays, and specialty boutiques that now populate this neighborhood are a far cry from the burnt-out tenements, porn houses, prostitutes, wide-eyed runaways, and every kind of hustler and criminal imaginable that I can remember scurrying past in order to get home.

These days, I’m afforded the luxury of strolling around my old stamping ground, nodding to neighbors and offering directions to tourists. I meet my friends for coffee around the corner and watch the sunset on a pier that was once the first stop for waves of immigrants soon to be shuttled by ferry to Ellis Island. I feel at ease hearing the children play in the parks and try to explain how different this landscape was just 30 years ago to people who were not even born then. Politicians and developers have attempted to change the name of this stretch of city, calling it Clinton or Midtown West in efforts to gentrify the brutal history associated with its title—but if you were here and you stayed here, there is a certain pride you carry, a certain grit you can’t help but display, and authenticity you recognize among the old guard—and that will always be Hell’s Kitchen.

Hell’s Kitchen is by far one of the most dynamic and diverse sections of New York. It is literally the crossroads of the world with the Port Authority hosting buses from all over the country, cars crammed through the Lincoln Tunnel and along the West Side Highway, airport buses, and connections to nearly all of the subways. A culture of contrasts and flux, we are home to the oldest church (and structure) on 42nd Street, the stables that house the horses who take tourists on rides through Central Park, the Professional Performing Arts High School, the Actors Studio, dozens of studios and theaters, a teaming nightlife, and a vibrant LGBTQ+ community.

Sandwiched between Broadway and the Hudson River Parks with hundreds of restaurants and shops in between, there is no shortage of places to spend your time and money. Fire escapes still zigzag along many of the remaining tenement buildings while locals and tourists can be found zig-zagging along the intersections. It is noisy, crowded, frantic, creative, vivacious, resilient, and it still can get down and dirty sometimes.

In essence, Hell’s Kitchen is quintessential New York.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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